Saving Amazon Forest

The eco-piracy, fires and depletion of forests is causing immense pollution

It has been my dream to go to the largest rain forest in the world, the Amazon and to see the Amazon river. And you know what, it did happen. This August I visited Brazil and I first went to Manaus for 10 days and from there to other parts of Brazil.

In our school days, we used to have penpals or pen friends, where we’d be registered and we exchanged letters to other children from across the world. On the lines, of global village, we are all one large family of human beings. Now for decades Ricardo F. Nardi my Brazilian penpal and I have stayed in touch.

Adventure Begins

To cut short some 40-plus years, we reconnected on Facebook, he and his family -- Luciana and Emiri, came to India, were with us - my parents and me in 2018, and since then we had been planning my trip! Finally, as I was going on a project to Chicago, I also was visit a school friend in Orlando and shared the plans with the Nardis. They scanned flights, routes and most of all affordable prices and they hog upon a brilliant plan of Orlando-Miami-Brasila-Manaus-Sao Pailulo-Manus-Brasilla-Miami-Chicago. It entailed 5 flights spannec over 4 days, but I could squeeze in short visits to meet a few friends and most of all, one fourth the price of regular Bom-South America-Bom cost! Now that was a jackpot.

So I embarked on this grand plan after a trip to Michigan. It was nearly two months of road and other travel. When Ricardo first asked me, “What would you like to see Neeta”. Me being the one who wants to run to see the forest, wildlife, historic places and ruins, I jumped at it and said the Amazon. First it seemed improbable, once the tickets were finalised, it all fell in place. The day I was leave for Miami, my flight from Orlando was cancelled by the airline, due to a thunderstorm. It had been raining, which I love, but that entails a lot of trouble. My school friend panicked and after checking all alternatives we decided to I should take the train.

Thankfully everything is within the premises of the airport and I got myself a train ticket. Now I didn't take the 9.15am train because I would reach early and my Airbnb at Miami was not available before 3pm. Trust the train to be delayed and it was indefinitely delayed..finally we left Miami and after nearly 4 hours I reached the final station. It wasn't cold, much like Mumbai weather, warm, humid. Moreover, there was NOT a drop of water, forget thunderstorm and I sat in the train and what made my eyes pop out was this sight!

I don't seem to have a dull moment in my life and I'm grateful for that! Lol! There are lot more dramatic moments that awaited me. I reached Miami and what could have been a walking distance, in US it's all motorable only. It was HOT, sweaty and after trying stroll around, I was warned by Ricardo, the areas there aren't safe. The night barely passed, as there was a bright light outside; also I wasn't confident of waking up to the alarm and I woke up way too early. I made myself some tea (yes, I carry my tea bags, especially to US, which still doesn't know what good tea/chai is). And while I was showering in a cubby hole studio bathroom I heard a sound and saw a gigantic cockroach flying! Ugh…ugh. 2 pests I detest are, roaches and rats. Now that Airbnb lock-key was new to me, but I managed to put everything in place, rushed out, booked an Uber and suffered the hot weather even at 5.30am. it reminded me of Chennai. I went to the airport and found an authentic Cuban coffee kiosk.

At the check-in counter, the Brazilian staff asked me strange questions, which neither American nor Brazilian immigration asked! I of course asked why were they asking such questions, was it because I'm an Indian, they gave some random unconvincing reply. Now, the good part was, there weren't many Indians. I go through all checks in home and messaged Ricardo who said was stressed for my absolute short halt between Brasilia and Manaus. He had told me I would have to push myself through and had ensured I was booked on a grong seat. I muscled my way ahead, requesting the Business class passengers to give me way. They are another breed altogether. As if because they are in biz class, they should be given the 1st right to disembark. Anyway, I couldn't have bothered to see the look of disgust on their faces, I of course heard their rumblings in Portugese and other language. Now, I sprinted like my ass was on fire. Not since my last athletic and basketball competition in 90s had inrun this fast. At that moment I felt I shed 10 kgs. I made it in time for the next boarding and the Nardis heaved a sigh of relief, thrilled I would reach that very night. Lettice, Ricardo and Lu were preparing to welcome me.

Amazon Beckons

Meanwhile, I saw the Amazon river from the sky at night..it looked surreal.

I landed in Manaus near midnight and it took me good over and hour to step out because the airline has damaged the zip of my bag. After a huge discussion we stepped out and I was given a shocker. There has been a short circuit and our hotel was in dark. I somehow managed to get rest and we decided to find a new place. We had quite an experience with a new hotel, with U er drivers asking us ‘good women’ to be careful. Imagine in the main square of Manaus, near the Opera Theatre is a red light area. We finally booked into the hotel next door to the old and saved a lot of trouble.

The first day we made ourselves comfortable, walked around and booked for waterfalls. It was simply beautiful, without a doubt.

After this mesmerizing experience we signed for the boat visit. First the confluence of rivers Amazon and Negro, then the Dolphin show, indigenous village and back to Manaus.

Amazon Tourism

Pardon me, but the Amazon tourism is a very white man ‘s tourism concept to attract good money. I guess that is the only way to raise good money for the indigenous people. Sadly, the tour performers don't always feed every dolphin, while the tourists burst into loud squeals and click photos.

They survive on tourism and even if it means they have to put up this whole native experience for the white tourists. They get donations, gifts and fees, though everything put on display is curated thoroughly.

It was a well curated tour, but not something I expected of a rain forest. Now I have been going to the forests in India and I must say they are like the Kenyan safaris. We have varied vegetation and grass, it is different in every state. This was more like marshy forest and I really expected to see some wildlife, not Jaguars but at least few varieties of Monkeys. Instead I quickly caught the eye of few poached rare species. Now this was definitely NOT my idea of wildlife. The 3 rare species were hunted for a few dollars more… Annaconda, Alligator and Araracanga. The last I finally saw in the forest, small mercies.

The confluence of both the rivers is definitely the high point of going to this part. It is actually the best part. Now, they don’t allow us to go to the interiors even if one is a journalist. My friend tried hard, but was told for that I will have to sign up with a researcher and then only would I be allowed.

Bird Watching

One thing I must say of Manaus, we met and interacted with really nice people. In the morning we would share our experiences and tel each other of the places we visited. One such was shared and we were asked to go to a national park close to Manaus. It was part of the rain forest but here at least I would get to see some wildlife and birds. This was a welcome change to the huge disappointment till now. We climbed on top to the watch tower and I must admit it may have been a huge bore for my 3 friends but they were immensely supportive. Along the way we bumped into Alex Sezko, a journalist and bird photographer.

He had the know how and most of all he was immensely cooperative. I’ve seen how photographers and naturalists don’t share knowledge or are secretive. Alex was of great help and he definitely helped me spot birds so that I too could get some photos.

Deforestation, Eco-Piracy

The sad part is the river is littered and people have thrown plastic come bottles, there are wrappers and it is sad. On top of it, there is eco-piracy, huge amount of reclamation, destruction and depletion of resources. Moreover there are huge commercial interests --mining for precious stones, minerals and worst of all fires that are destroying the Amazon forest. On the 3rd day here we faced the most polluted days in the last 12 years. Smoggy weather, overcast skies that swallowed the sun like it happens in Mumbai and you don't get to see proper sunsets. These are man-made fires, as fields are burnt and many natural too.

The locals told me stories of NGOs and researchers who have vested interests for wanting huge funds and have alleged to have indulged in these acts. Sadly, the indigenous people are at the receiving end, as the government obviously sides with the commercial interests. It is scary because we heard there may just be very little left of the Amazon forest 10 years from now.

#SaveAmazon